Monday, 10 July 2017. (Rifugio Rosetta to Rifugio Treviso; Stage 9)
You know when a fire engine drives by you and can’t believe they’re allowed to blare their sirens as loud as they do because it hurts your ears? That’s about how loud zi Germans snored last night. Thank god for ear plugs.
Deb and I woke up to it being petty windy outside which made us curious to see how the trek to Rifugio Treviso was going to go. We got on the trail at 8:15am. As it turned out, the wind wasn't a factor as the trail dipped below the ridgeline pretty quickly and the temperature was perfect (approximately 50 – 60F). Also, the cable sections weren't bad at all. We smoked the first couple hours to Rifugio Pradidali. Fruit tea time! It was cool that this rifugio seemed to be sponsored by La Sportiva, a big climbing gear company. We sat out on the glass enclosed patio area which had some solid views and had the place to ourselves.
I come from a family where bathroom humor was prevalent, so I feel compelled to bitch about those dumb, hole-in- the-floor toilets one more time. Apparently those toilets provide the gift that keeps on giving as not having an excessive amount of time to wipe effectively which a sit down toilet would have readily provided, left me with a little bit of ‘swamp-ass’. Hate those hole-in- the-floor toilets.
Leaving Rifugio Pradidali trying to put this ‘issue’ behind me, we climbed into the clouds on a long stretch of cables. I thought this section was really cool and actually enjoyed the adventure that the exposure provided. I felt there was no need for via ferratte gear if you have any kind of climbing background. The one exception would be if the trail was wet or icy, then it wouldn’t be a bad idea.
After we reached Passo delle Lede, we then meandered downhill through the clouds and back into the sunshine 4,084 feet to Val Canali, the valley floor. This was a LONG downhill, which was pretty steep at times. There’s a little plateau where you reach Bivacco Minazio and you can see Rifugio Treviso across the valley. It really doesn’t look that far, but it takes every bit of 1 ½ hours to get there from that point. There’s also a collection of airplane parts from an old wreck.
Once we got down to the valley, there was a cool stream with a few small waterfalls close by. It was refreshing to wash our hands and face with its ice-cold water. Deb and I finished around 3:45pm for a 7.5 hr day. Rifugio Treviso is a pretty cool spot tucked in the mountains and I was pretty excited to check it out as it's the climber rifugio hub of the Dolomites. There were a bunch of climbers here, hang boards for training your fingers to get strong, etc. Man did I want to get out there and climb.
Well, maybe the next day as I was pretty smoked from hiking. Rifugio Treviso has solid showers for 5 euro. Deb and I again shared a 4-person, small bunk room with two other folks. It was small, but it worked fine as there was plenty of space to hang and store gear. The view from the rifugio balcony down and across the valley was exceptional! Love those views! Plug that phone in early as the outlets in the common area get snagged quick.
As soon as Deb and I got there, we ordered some food. I had the minestrone soup was and it was killer as per the guidebook recommendation. I had meat dumplings in red meat sauce for dinner, which is the best way I've had them prepared. Also, the beef carpaccio (carne salads con Fagioli) and beans dish was bomb as well as the panna cotta for dessert with fresh berries.
Deb and I hung with a couple English folks for dinner and it was pretty entertaining conversation. Apparently in England, the Trump video in Scotland where he's followed around with a sousaphone is a huge hit. I slept ok, but the bunk beds were a bit rickety and the upstairs was all open in an A-Frame format, making interruptions easy. I say this as apparently I slept through a huge thunderstorm that night, so maybe I slept better than I thought.